With summer arriving, we’re moving to lighter coloured beers, but there is no reason why less colour has to mean less flavour or complexity. When it comes to flavour and complexity, the Belgians often are credited with delivering these in abundance.
Our two beers to-day are both abbey beers, and both Blonde ales. Our first beer is St. Stefanus – a 7% a.b.v. blonde ale brewed by Van Steenberge in Belgium under licence for use of the St. Stefanus name from the Augustinian abbey in Ghent, Belgium. Our second beer is Steenbrugge Blond, brewed by Palm Breweries under licence from St. Peter’s Abbey in Brugge.
Where is a beer from?
When it comes to wine, the country of origin of a wine is a consideration in the character and taste of the wine. The country of origin is linked directly to the terroir and climate, both of which impact on the growing of the grapes used to make the wine. While the varietal of the grape(s) and the blend of grapes have a clearer implication for the flavour that one might expect in the wine, there is no doubt that country of origin is also an important issue.
When it comes to beer, the origin of the beer most definitely has an impact on the character and the taste of the beer. However, the impact that the origin of a beer has is more related to cultural issues than it is to geographic or climate-related issues. Beer can be brewed in any country in the world. While it is more normal for wine to be made in the vicinity of the vineyards where the grapes are grown, when it comes to beer, it is possible to transport ingredients to breweries anywhere around the world for use in brewing. It is not unusual to see Eastern European hops being used in America, New Zealand hops being used in England, or American hops being used in Australia. Likewise, while malt is a much bulkier ingredient in brewing, some breweries transport malt across long distances. Yeast, likewise, can be made available from one country to any brewery around the world – though admittedly, when it comes to yeast, the local environment is a significant factor on the way that it performs. There are very few instances where styles of beer have a legal tie (or a technical tie) requiring that they be brewed in a specific part of the world.
So, in theory, any beer can be brewed in any country (almost without exception). However, this is a touch of an over-simplification. In the U.S., many breweries are brewing ‘Belgian-style’ ales. However, in some cases (particularly in the case of lambic beers) the breweries that brew these beers are seen as producing replicas of the grandfather style rather than authentic versions of that style.
So what can we say about the impact that the origin of a beer has on the flavour that one might expect from a beer?
Firstly, beer styles are directly influenced by the country in which they are first developed. These styles are often qualified or sub-styled according to country of origin – for example, it is not unusual for somebody to refer to an ‘English IPA’ versus an ‘American IPA’, the distinction coming from the hops used in the beer, and where these hops are grown.
Country of origin has an impact on beer style in two different ways. Firstly, the ingredients that are used in a beer brewed to a specific style are heavily influenced by the ingredients appropriate to that style. Belgian yeasts deliver a character which, while different depending on the specific strain used, are often broadly similar in terms of the flavours that result in the beers. Hops from a specific country are known to have specific characteristics that they impart to the flavour of the beer in which they are used. While malts can be replicated around the world, there is a difference between European malt (two-row malt, which is fuller and plumper) as compared to American malt (six row, which is a little less plump). Likewise, some speciality malts are directly associated with a particular region.
This impact has a relationship to the ingredients used in brewing this style. If these ingredients are transported around the world, then one can see a U.S. brewer brewing an ‘English’ mild – in such an instance, the result can be quite similar despite the difference in country of origin.
The second influence that country of origin has on a beer is a cultural issue. When a brewer is designing a beer, they will have a vision for this beer. That vision will be influenced by what they believe is most appropriate in the flavour of this beer. For example, Belgian brewers generally brew stronger beers, English brewers are not averse to brewing beers lighter in alcohol. It is quite unusual to get a beer around 2.8% a.b.v. in Belgium. Likewise, more beers in the U.K. tend to be around the 3.5% to 5.5% level. Not to say that beers are not brewed outside of these ranges. However, on the law of averages, there is a certain level of commonality that is influenced by cultural expectations of the brewery.
How do abbey beers fit into this?
An abbey will be located in a specific location, and will have a history associated with the monks from the order that established the abbey. Many abbey beers have been brewed for hundreds of years, or have a history where they were originally brewed hundreds of years ago, and the style has been revived. However, outside of Trappiste beers, this is a broad generalisation.
Trappiste beers have very strict rules governing the manner in which the beer is brewed. They must be brewed on the site of the abbey, and they need to conform with rules associated with the International Trappiste Association.
With abbey beers, the rules are looser. An abbey beer is brewed under licence from an abbey, which allows the brewer to use their name on the beer. The level of control that the abbey exerts on the beer varies depending on the beer and the abbey. Probably the best known ‘abbey’ beer is Leffe. Most would consider this to be purely a brand, with little or no real association with the abbey beyond the use of the name. Commentators would consider that this beer has changed over time to suit the demands of the Accounting and Marketing departments of the brewer – ABInbev, which is the biggest brewery in the world. In this instance, one would have to argue that the commercial concerns of the mainstream brewery brewing this beer have a greater influence on the character of the beer.
In stark contrast to this, the history and heritage associated with Steenbrugge beers goes back to the 1400’s. The original beer was brewed using the traditions associated with Belgian brewing – using herbs (or gruut) instead of hops. With this beer, given that the brewery was originally established by St. Arnold, patron saint of brewers in Belgium, there is a strong expectation from the abbey that traditions and heritage will be respected. Brewed by Palm Breweries – a brewery reknowned for working hard to maintain brewing traditions in Belgium – the adherence to traditions and the origins of the beer is a cornerstone of the brewery’s philosophy.
St. Stefanus –
Beer Style - Blonde Abbey Beer
Alcohol by Volume - 7.0% a.b.v.
Brewed by - Brouwerij Van Steenberge
Brewed in - Belgium
St. Stefanus is a relatively new abbey beer. While the abbey dates back to 1295, this particular beer has just come onto the market in the last three years. This beer has been developed by Brouwerij Van Steenberge (best known for brewing Piraat and Gulden Draak) in association with SAB Miller. What is interesting about the approach that has been adopted in the brewing of this beer is that SAB Miller has acknowledged the importance of the origin of the beer on the flavour and style that one should expect from the beer. Van Steenberge has been given a broad latitude and strong responsibility in maintaining the character and credentials of the beer. While other big breweries have often ‘dumbed down’ the flavour of the abbey beers that they produce, there is no mistaking that the vision for this beer was to brew a characterful and authentic blond abbey ale.
In an interesting twist, particularly for a blonde ale, St. Stefanus actively highlights the manner in which the beer changes in character over time. It is not unusual for Belgian beers that are ‘re-fermented in the bottle’ to be aged for an extended period of time in bottle after packaging. St. Stefanus is no exception – aged for 3 months after packaging to ensure that the secondary fermentation is allowed to develop the character of the beer fully. However, as with all beers that are bottle conditioned or ‘re-fermented in the bottle’ the beer has the potential to further develop in character as the beer ages. The bottle for St. Stefanus outlines what the beer drinker should expect depending on the age of the beer from date of bottling. For example, the bottles that we are tasting to-day were bottled in June 2013, and so are approaching 12 months old. The scale on the bottle indicates that we should expect greater complexity and fuller aromatics in this beer. Where the bottle is opened soon after release (for example around three months after release), the fruitiness of character is more in evidence.
St. Stefanus pours with a pale gold colour, and a full white head. Aromas of sweet honey and rich fruitiness are in evidence, combining with bready yeast. This beer is complex, and rich in Belgian character, but superbly easy to drink. Toasty malt, honeyed apricots, golden raisins, pears and apples combine with Belgian yeast character on top of subtle spicy and floral hop notes. This is a superbly rounded beer, and there is no compromise on flavour. The 7% a.b.v. alcohol strength is distinctly in evidence, but is serves to assure the drinker of the depth of character of the beer rather than being in any way over-powering. The finish is relatively clean, with a lingering taste of Belgian ale yeast character, and subtle spice playing on the palate after swallowing.
St. Stefanus is refreshing in the approach that has been taken to the beer. There has been no compromise on the flavour of the beer, and Van Steenberge have not shied away from delivering a beer with real character. At the same time, the balance and complexity of the beer is superb – so even those not accustomed to fuller flavour beers are likely to be frightened away by excesses of one particular flavour – each flavour plays against the next to deliver a beer that is refreshing with a very full palate of character.
Steenbrugge Blonde –
Beer Style - Blonde Abbey Beer
Alcohol by Volume - 6.5% a.b.v.
Brewed by - Palm Breweries
Brewed in - Belgium
The original abbey of Oudenberg was established in 1084 by Arnold of Tiegem. Beer was brewed by the monks at this brewery. By encouraging the locals to drink beer instead of water, they were protected from the plague. It is no wonder that Arnold was canonised as patron saint of Belgian brewers. In 1875, the rights of the Oudenberg abbey were transferred to the abbey of St. Peter in Steenbrugge. Steenbrugge beers were brewed at the brewery at St. Peter’s abbey from then through two world wars.
The secret to the flavour in the Steenbrugge beers is the use of gruut – a blend of herbs and spices – to complement or replace the use of hops in the beer. This is a tradition that was common in Belgian brewing – it is the source of the birth of styles such as wit bier. However, with the exception of a few styles, the practice has largely fallen into disuse.
When the Steenbrugge beers were revived in the 1980’s De Gouden Boom brewery were fervent in maintaining the traditions associated with the recipe. The beers were brewed using gruut to the original recipe as had been used by the monks at the abbey since the 1800’s. In the noughties, Palm Breweries acquired De Gouden Boom brewery, and from 2003, Palm has been brewing the range of Steenbrugge beers. Dedicated to maintaining classic beer styles (Palm Breweries are also responsible for maintaining the Rodenbach beer true to its heritage, and also for reviving the classic Belgian pilsner in the form of Estaminet, as well as working with Frank Boon, pioneer of lambic brewing, to maintain this style).
Steenbrugge Blonde is a distinctly individual blonde ale. The use of gruut in the beer is fundamental to its character. Initially mild honey sweetness greets the nose, combining with the suggestion of delicate spice aromas. Because of the use of gruut, the characteristic bitterness associated with hops is replaced with a character that serves to accentuate and complement the sweetness of the beer. Toasty malt character combines with honey on the palate, and fruity esthers further develop on the palate. The finish of the beer is quite clean and crisp, with the vaguest suggestion of honey and spice lingering pleasantly but subtly.
Steenbrugge is an excellent example of how the traditions and culture of a region can be applied to a beer style to allow that beer to reflect the heritage and character associated with the region from which the beer hails. It is an excellent blonde ale, incredibly pleasant and easy to drink, yet containing superb character and complexity. It is an ideal summer drink, which would also work well with llighter dishes (white meats, or even with salad).
Delicious!
