Many skin-care products claim to be anti-ageing or to get rid of wrinkles – but is there any truth to these claims?

A recent paper in a dermatology journal shows that while some products are making valid claims, the science behind others “is a bit ropey”.

That’s according to Professor Luke O’Neill, who told the Show Me The Science podcast that it is important to “never forget to look at things critically”.

“The big concern as well is, which I came across, TikTok influencers pushing some of these things – anti-ageing especially is a huge thing – and you’ve just got to be a bit careful to see what’s in the product,” he said.

“There is a basis for some of these things, which is fine, but never forget to look at things critically.

“It turns out that overall, there’s no real effect at slowing down ageing.

“You might help with the wrinkles because of a bit of moisturising, but you can’t really have so-called ‘anti-ageing products’ as such.”

A woman with a skincare face mask, 25-2-22. Image : Zoonar GmbH / Alamy

Prof O’Neill said the only truly anti-ageing product on the market is sunscreen.

“You’ve got to be careful with the sun because that UV will sometimes give rise to melanoma which can be an absolute life-threatening cancer,” he said.

“So, it’s very important to wear sunblock in the sun because it will stop that UV damage, which in turn gives rise to mutations that can promote cancer – so be very careful.

“Secondly, there’s no doubt, studies have shown this and we all know it, people who are out in the outdoors a lot, their skin ages more quickly, so there’s no doubt that the UV is increasing the ageing process in skin.

“Someone who has been, say, outdoors a lot because of their job for say 20 or 30 years compared to someone who isn’t, their skin will be inclined to age more quickly.”

Anti-inflammatory processes

According to Prof O’Neill, ingredients like retinol and ceramides can still be beneficial.

“They’re anti-inflammatory, some of them ceramides and retinol, and it’s the inflammatory process in the skin that’s probably making it age a bit more quickly,” he said.

“This UV light is causing localised inflammation as in the case of sunburn, but even low-level UV will have this effect.

“So, some of these creams and unction's, maybe they will have a little effect there because they’ll stop that inflammatory process and that can be beneficial.

“But, overall, your best bet is to stop the UV light hitting the skin in the first place.”

Prof O’Neill said there is no use in spending huge amounts of money on these products so long as they have the right ingredients.

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Main image: Luke O'Neill in the Newstalk studio (L) and skin care products (R).