The O’Toole Bros. bar first opened in 1871, and ownership has passed down through numerous generations of the O’Toole family. After almost a century and a half, however, 11:30 PM on Tuesday 13th August will see current proprietors Paul Sr. and Maureen O'Toole close up for the last time.
The Harbour Bar has been a Bray institution for decades, but 2010 saw the bar achieve international recognition when it was voted by Lonely Planet readers, with the assistance of an enthusiastic social networking campaign by the pub itself, as the best bar in the world. It has since lost that accolade - indeed, it didn’t even make the top 100 in 2012 - but it goes to show the fondness so many locals, expats and visitors have for the small seaside bar. Lonely Planet still dub it "a strong contender for Ireland's best pub".
First-timers might have been initially baffled by the bar’s reputation, what with its frequently limited beer selection (the Harbour Bar has long been associated pretty much exclusively with Bavaria - they even painted the exterior blue a few years back) and somewhat... ‘rustic’ feel. That’s the whole charm though: it’s a simple, cheap, no-nonsense drinkery and has no illusions of being anything else.
Looking for pub grub? Go to one of Bray’s many other establishments: food is not what the Harbour is about. It’s about overloud local bands, themed nights during the week and the fact that you probably know 50% of the people in attendance on any given Friday.
Whether it’s the traditionally Irish, trad-musician filled main bar (affectionately dubbed ‘the old man’s bar’ by locals) or the more relaxed, quirky ‘lounge’ and conservatory, the Harbour Bar offers a delightful combination of both the old-school and more contemporary pub experience. Regulars will even brave the outdoor tables all year round, because that’s just the sort of vibe there is. It is a definitive Irish pub experience, warts and all: basically falling apart at the seams, but to repair it would completely strip away the charm.
The Harbour Bar has also been a beneficiary of the nearby Ardmore Studios. Visitors over the years have included Neil Jordan, Liam Neeson and Laurence Olivier. Scenes from Breakfast on Pluto and Zonad were filmed there.
Peter O’Toole, a regular during his filming days, even gifted the bar a mounted moose head from Woody Allen’s What’s New, Pussycat? It’s one of several odd movie props still (or at least until tonight) adorning the walls. Musicians that have paid a visit include Bono, Shane McGowan, Sinead O’Connor and Christy Moore.
Alas, the recession and the ever-increasing popularity of other Bray bars have finally taken their toll. The new owners are unlikely to keep the doors closed for long, and are undoubtedly going to take advantage of the location and reputation of the bar. They’ll probably fix it up a bit, maybe even install some more sanitary toilet facilities.
The Harbour Bar will be back, but it won’t be the same: O’Toole Bros. will always be remembered for having its own ramshackle character, the type no amount of financial investment or interior decoration can buy.
Good night, sweet prince. We'll always have German television.
(Image: Harbour Bar Bray)
